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West to Savanna, Illinois and the Mississippi River - Trip 2

Take IL20 West to Ridott Corners Tavern to get your bearings. Actually it is here that we learned about this route to Savanna. A couple from Aurora came out this way to stay at a friends house and cheat on their spouses. They said Mossbach Road is usually empty and very scenic.

We have gone over to Savanna about 50 times, but never took this way. We usually just zigzag until we run into the Mississippi and try to figure out whether we should go north or south.

But this time go west on US20 to Stockton, Illinois. US20 is not an Interstate, but it is, for the most part, a fast two- and four-lane rude highway, but you won’t be on it very long.

On the corner of Bypass US20 and Business US20 (AYP Road) just west of Lena is a restaurant and antique store called the Swan's Nest. Do not under any circumstances stop here. They do not want our kind and they make it very clear. They can spot real men and real women from the minute you hit the door and that is not what they are catering to. On the other hand if you are a wine and cheese antiquer you might get to use the crapper, but only if you have lunch here. Having taken the bypass around Freeport, there is a bit of a distance between bathrooms. The Swan's Nest looks like a welcome spot, but upon closer observation it appears that serious buyers only are welcome here. Grit your teeth and ride on to Stockton.

In Stockton, take IL78 south. It is not right across US20 from IL78 north. You have to into town to find it. On the way are two taverns: The Corner Tap, on IL78, and the Red Knight Pub, left on Front Street. Friendly folks in either. Be careful about using the bathroom in the Red Knight Pub. They aren’t marked and the middle door is a broom closet.Leaving Stockton south on IL78, turn right at the Blackhawk Run Golf Club (East Center Road).

There’s a lot of things named Blackhawk in Northern Illinois including a Chicago Hockey team and the Stockton High School football mascot.The latter of which has a better lifetime record. The Stockton Blackhawks were state champs in 1978 and 1991, second place three times. When Coach O’Boyle left in 1997 he had a 279-74-1 over a 35 year period. Friday nights are fun in Stockton, Illinois.

In April 1832, Blackhawk, without permission and with no hostile intent, returned to the Illinois side of the Mississippi River. On May 23, 1832, Blackhawk sent several braves to Major Isaiah Stillman's camp with a truce flag. Many of Stillman's men were drunk at the time, and, upon seeing the braves, attacked them. Two braves were killed and two others captured and later killed. Blackhawk and his chief, Ne-o-pope, felt that their gesture for peace had been rejected, and thus the Blackhawk War began. Not until August 2, 1832 and the Battle of Bad Axe, was chief Blackhawk pushed into Wisconsin and the war ended. Only then, did the Eastern part of Jo Daviess County become safe for pioneers. From: http://www.stocktonil.com/heritage.html, which, by the way, is maintained by Blackhawk Internet Communications

The honor the northwestern area of Illinois has given Chief Blackhawk by immortalizing his name in parks, businesses, golf courses, rail lines, and sports teams pays tribute to a larger than life American historical figure.

After passing the golf course, turn south on Massbach Rd. It’s a long haul between here and Savanna with no interesting or convenient stops, so prepare yourself. Stay on Massbach Road no matter how tempting it may be to go straight. It curves through some of the most scenic hills of Northern Illinois. It’s a quiet road with very few cars or motorcycles. Just before Massbach Road turns back east, at 8837 Massbach Road is the Massbach Ridge Winery. They sell wine there. We have never stopped.Unless there is absolutely nothing else available, I don’t drink wine. As far as I am concerned, wine is a fruit drink and should be treated as such. Why don't people have cider cellars? People who drink wine think that they are too polished to get high on alcohol, so they cloak their desire in sophistication and taste.Of course it is too crude to be drunk or even get a glow, so wine appreciation is the answer. “Yeah, that’s it – I’m a taste expert that only the most trained and discerning pallet would allow to be qualified. I’m not drinking, I’m training my pallet.”

We went to a wine tasting event at the Illinois State Fair. It cost a nominal charge to get to this “agricultural exhibit,” but when we went around for the third time, the vintners figured out we weren’t going to buy their fermented grape juice and quit showing us their award certificates. They smiled politely as we knocked down those little plastic cups like a college kid on spring break.As we walked off to the barns to moo at the cows, we tried to figure out what those dry crackers were for and why they didn’t have any meat to snack on.

Besides, I don’t like drinking anything that has rules – temperature, decanting, breathing….. Just put my drink in a glass and keep me upright.

“On our site you will find information about tasting techniques and terms, how smell and taste are integral to the enjoyment of wine, the proper way to serve wine and what types of wine glasses are appropriate for certain wines, where you can go to participate in a wine tasting and how to act when you are there. We have also included links to other sites on the Internet that have to do with wine tasting and enjoyment.” From: Wine enthusiasts Web Site

In Europe, they have nude women on the front pages of their daily newspapers. They claim they are too sophisticated and tasteful to be affected by it and we westerners are uptight about nudity. I’ve got to hand it to the guys over there: they’ve pulled a fast one, and nobody has the nerve to expose it for what it is.Wine is like erotic photography. It’s just porn for the tasteful and sophisticated who claim they are not affected by it. Wine is booze cloaked in sophistication and taste – unless you’re a wino.If you are so inclined, stop in at the winery. I am sure the people are nice.

Just passed the winery, Mashbach Road changes into South Breuning Road, then to Elizabeth Road, then to Zion Road. Zion Road ends at Scenic Ridge Route. Before you go downtown, turn right on IL84/64/US52 and check out Mississippi Palisades Park. Just in case you don't know, a palisade is a line of lofty, steep cliffs, usually along a river. Take the south entrance up to the lookouts. The views of the Mississippi and the trains are good. Lots of trails and camping for those whose wives understand that camping is not a hotel without a pool.

Exit at the north entrance. Go straight to the river and take a look at an old dinner boat. I don't know what this tub did before it became a dinner boat, but we did get a tour before the diner there shut down. I'm sure nobody is going to open this thing again - it kinda stunk before they closed it.

Heading into Savanna on the right in a cellar is a place that was called McCool's, last time we were there. This was the original site for Poopies, a biker destination. Upstairs you could get a tatoo, a T-shirt with an off color saying on the back, and biker trinkets and jewelry with skulls on them and such. In the cellar was the bar - a dark, damp, limestone-walled cave-like place. The bar is still there, but Poopies moved and became a place with big clean bathrooms with turbo-charged hand dryers. More about Poopies Lite, later.

Across the street is The Iron Horse Social Club - half museum, half bar. They say it's a bar and grill, but the only food we found was cooked and served by "Fat" Jack Fosdick just out side the front door to the place. Jack Fosdick is a four-time winner of the Globe Award at the American Royal Barbecue, the world-wide contest held each year in Kansas City.

The talk at the Iron Horse there is lame and predictable, but the old motorcycle stuff is, indeed, priceless. The odd thing here is that their web site (http://www.ironhorsesocialclub.com/) does require rather sophisticated technology to view. The stuff in this place reminds me of the Scrambles. These were motorcycle races in the 1950's on a dirt track near the farm I grew up on. It was basically a hilly pasture with a track with jumps and curves. The starts were a cloud of dust with an occassional guy with a flag rising up out of the dust flipping over and over. Dick Busky ran the thing and raced there from time to time. He lost his hearing from a racing accident.

Be sure to come home with an Iron Horse t-shirt or a halter top for the ole-lady - high fashion weekender wear for picnics, concerts, and festivals.

By far, the most interesting place to stop and talk in downtown Savanna is the VFW Club. Talk of wars and valour, fights and politics, honor and country, and old men looking for new people to tell their stale jokes to. The men here complain that the younger members are always too busy to help out, but excused them for their youth and family time. These old guys fought wars meant to be won and have little respect for the polite way we fight today. Their buddies died next to them so actors could have the freedom to support our enemies today.

For me, I don't care how we get into a war or who started it. I don't care how the enemy fights or prays. I feel bad that civilians die in wars, but that's the nature of it. I don't care what we do in carrying out the battles - I just want us to win. And that win needs to be so decisive that the enemy will not want to mess with the United States for generations to come.


When we go to Savanna, we spend some time in the Shaw-Leavens Post 2223 VFW.

More about Poopies Lite. Head south then east out of town and then turn right at IL84. You'll find the place a few blocks on the left. This is an interesting thing - an upscale, clean, trendy biker bar with drinks mixed well and edible food. In the well maintained back yard is room for primitive camping and a bandshell. I would guess this place rocks at night. Some afternoons have entertainment. They also sell and service Harley Davidsons. As I mentioned before - the most interesting things here are the restrooms. The mens' room has sinks, well scrubbed- sit down toilets, toilet paper, smell-good soft soap, and that turbo-charged hand dryer that will turn upwards to dry the face after one freshens up after sipping a raspberry martini in the fresh air at the covered pavilion bar. What's next - a tony homeless shelter?

There's lots more to see in Savanna, but to make this a day trip, it's time to move on. We head back out of town east on US52/IL64. Mount Carroll is worth a stop on the way home just for the cool old houses. You can turn left on IL78 by the gas station and head north to the Yield Sign, then right and you'll be right downtown. Both Kallemezoo's and Sievert's will be happy to see you.

Kallemezoo's has a collection of old cameras and the mens' room window is cemented up with iron bars across the bricks - the men must get a little randy in Mt. Carroll.

The ship's bell of the USS Hissem hangs at city hall. The Hissem was named after Ensign Joseph Hissem, whose photo, taken when he was 25 years old, hangs on the wall of City Hall. Hissem, of the U.S. Naval Reserve, was killed at the Battle of Midway in June of 1942. He was born in 1917 in Mount Carroll.

Information on the major parks, businesses, and attractions in Savanna is abundant and mainstream, and therefore, not covered here. We hope you enjoyed the account and its sarcasm, offensive opinion, and satire and take the trip. Please write me at the email in the introduction with comments and suggestions. No criticism will be accepted though, because it would certainly not be valid. - once again you're on your own getting home.